October 8 th from Santiago de Compostella

Sarria-29th Sept. to 1st Oct
Arrived at last in Sarria where I have to meet the girls. I am a little ahead of schedule at this stage because I did not want to stay in some of the places on the way here and kept walking to the next village or town. I stayed in an Alberge last night which was not that great and was a bit nervous of bed bugs. I had met a very large Dane who had been attacked by bed bugs and he was in a state with bites all over his body hands and legs. It was gross,not at all like Irish bed bugs of the past which I remember clearly,but rather like mosquito bites. After Los Herrerias where I found the BB on my chest it took a day for me to find where the fecker had bitten me on my leg. I could only imagine the misery the dane was feeling,apart from the cost of medications. Having pointed out a nest of the BB to the owner of the Alberge,he just wiped it with his finger and didnt seem to mind too much! I pulled the bed out from the walls before I got in to sleep and had a fitfull night.Next day I booked in to the monastry to await the girls arival.
I found a wonderful Italian restaurante/bar on the main street and had a couple of great meals there. The monastry was really nice and so clean............On the morning of the girls arrival I scrubbed the kitchen in the monastry and washed the floor. Then headedoff to the supermarket for some food and breakfast for the girls before we left on the first day of walking the next morning. They arrived in at 10pm and had some tea and a chat before getting some shut eye.
Portmarin-Arzua... There are five stages before arriving into Santiago and we booked accomodation ahead based on  the recommendation of the monastry staff who were very helpful. Portmarin was the first stop and the walk was 22k which went very well for the girls all things considered. They were surprised at the terrain and felt it was easier than they thought it was going to be. I smiled and agreed. The next day off we went to Palas de Rai another 22k and then Arzua on the third which was 29k. By this stage they were beginning to realise that it was´nt as easy as they thought. To get up every day and walk a minimum of 20k up and down hills and mountains enduring all sorts of weather required stamina and determination...........and then the blisters hit for Catherine. She took it in her stride but I knew it must have hurt. I had planned the last two stages in Santiago to be 19k and 20k over the last two days and this was just right for us. The terrain was still difficult for them with some steep ascents and descents but they got through it just fine.
Santiago-
It was a day of mixed feelings for me I must say. I was coming to the end of a long journey and I was delighted in one sense and sad in another. I spent the last day walking and reflecting on the journey itself and I found it difficult to get perspective on the whole thing. I could focus on smaller issues and lessons I learned along the way,some changes I will make in my life etc.. but I reckon I will have to wait a while untill I get some perspective on it.
We really pushed on the last stage as Catherine said that they lock the church at twelve for the pilgrim mass. So we got up at 5.30 am and start walking from O Pedrouza to get to Santiago on time. I didnt want Catherine to be dissappointed and miss the mass,so really pushed as we came into Santiago with just 15 minutes to spare but we made it. The entry therefore was about getting to the church on time rather than the arrival at the final destination. It was OK as it was a conscious choice to do that for me.
Later we sat in the square in the glorious sunshine and just drank in the scene. Someone said arriving after the walk is a bit of an anti climax..............Jury is out on that one...maybe today I will go back one last time before I go home,I will let you know....................... 

Sarria 30th Sept. (2)

The bed bug problem seems to be getting worse as we move towards Santiago. The weather has turned a bit nasty now as I leave Los Herriares. When I arrived I had to empty my mocilla to check for bugs and found none. During the night around 4.30  I felt something crawl on my chest and found a bed bug,I killed it as I jumped out of the bed. Needless to say I did not go back,went outside for a smoke instead and moved onas early as I could.
Today I head over a place called O Cebreiro.Yet another high mountain with a steep climb and descent. The weather just got worse and worse as I climbed. When I reached there I stopped for tea and visited a gorgeous church. I left for the downhill climb but as I went the weather just got so bad I could not see in front of my face. I returned to the summit unwilling to take a chance on going further. Most people had decided to stay at a hostel located there but I couldnt do that Cos my mocilla was in Triacastello. After a while there was a taxi going down the mountain with three other girls so I hopped in that. We got below the bad weather and at least we could see where we were going. So off I went again walking to Triacastella, it was gruelling walking downhill in the pouring rain. Going through small hamlets ,whose streets had rivers of rainwater and cow dung flowing across your path,very easy to slip in! By the time I got to the alberge I was a stinking mess!!.
Samos- Decided to stay here for a night to take it easy after yesterdays march it was only 12 Klms.There is a Benedictin monastry and I took the tour.  I saw two weddings here and I met the Irish Guy Ger Devine again. An old guy arrived at the very nice alberge,German,I think. I was of course polite to him but thought him a bit whiny and avoided him. Later that night he was driving me mad with his snoring, he had three kinds of snore.One was a kind of loud cat purring, another was your basic mouth open snore and the other was like a freight train sound. I guess each sound related to a sleeping position. Needless to say, very little sleep for me. Aound 12.30 there was someone banging on the front door so I got up to answer. There were two people outside and the door would not open. The key which had been hanging down on the door frame was jammed in the door as someone had closed it earlier. I looked around for another key and could not find one. So I had to let them in the window,I passed out a chair for them to stand on and in they came,2 yanks,having the crack. Next morning I heard people downstairs organising the climb through the window and smiled to myself. By the time I came down there was old snorer waiting for someone to help him out the window. I thought, should I seize the opportunity and get revenge for keeping me awake and chuck him out?But I decided two weddings were enough we did not need the funeral and so helped him out grudgingly- and then checked my annoyance at him....Off to Sarria for me.

Sarria 30th Sept.(1)

Hi Everyone,
It seems ages since I last posted 21 Sept. but have been unable for numerous technical reasons. Perhaps I will take it stage by stage to keep it in order.
Cruz de Ferro- For some reason I had begun my spiritual work on the path up to Cruz- this was about laying down any burdens you might have- it was nice and peaceful on the way up and the climb was steep only in parts. When I reached there it was a bit of an anti-climax really, unlike the Alto de Perdon which proved very emotional. I said my prayer ,laid my stone,sat and had an orange and a smoke and walked on.
Riego des Ambros- Nothing to report here-getting a bit fed up and in tetchy mood,as Breda would say,a bit Faddy,-met two very tall New Zealanders who were a bit barmy,a posh english guy from Kent who sat in a chair in the garden with a small cotton towel wrapped around his middle and legs raised on the chair. He asked me a little sheepishly if I was any good at fixing blisters. I told him I was´nt any good at fixing things period....One of the tall New Zealanders appeared at that moment and he asked her the same question, she turned and shouted up the stairs, "Dorris,we´ve got a live one here for ya!" Dorris appeared with a medical kit in tow,and looking like she was stoned out of her head. I decided to have a smoke just so I could watch the proceedings. It transpired that Dorris had a mission on the Camino to get everyone to Santiago in a relatively blister free state. Whatever floats your boat! In the meantime Richard (posh English guy) looked like the cat who got the cream, was quite prepared to let stoned Dorris go at him with scissors and needles in hand! Both rabbitting on about ex pats and british army sojourns. Fascinating.
That evening went to dinner and sat opposite the only other sane person,as far as I could see, Andreas from Germany,who actually had a great sense of humour. Beside him sat another English woman now living in South Carolina,and she sitting opposite Richard. Beside me on the other side were the barmy New Zealanders-Dorris whos eyes were getting heavier by the second,squaffing on the free bottle of wine. Chatting away I heard the anglo american talking about her now hometown and the fact that they were making BMW cars there. To be polite and contribute to the conversation I made the mistake of asking - was that a bit unusual as I thought the car manufacturing business was located in Detroit traditionally. One half hour later after what I can only describe as an oration on the history of not only the car industry in the states but on the history of blacks and the civil rights movement, I excused myself to go for a smoke- throughout this tirade I could not look over at Andreas as I knew I would go into kinks- Andreas joined me for a smoke even though he didnt actually smoke-we were both cracking up at the bizarre scene. He told me they were all popping all sorts of tablets for pain whether they had any or not.I could not wait to get out of there.
Ponferrada- Nice city and really interesting because of the Templar background.Went to see the Templars Castle,Cool........Alberge ok....
Villafrance- The walk was nice as it is beginning to get a little cooler. Walked through some vineyards where the harvesting had begun in earnest. Had the crack with some of the pickers and then went to see the grapes being pressed. Still walking alone but I dont mind I talk to everyone and only some think I am mad!
I booked a place in Vega de Vellacare for the 26th but when I got there I did not like the place at all,so I picked up my Mocilla and moved on to the next village and then the next village and then the next village. By the time I got to Los Herrieras I was so tired I didnt care where I slept. I met an Irish guy by the name of Ger Devine just for a minute before I spotted an Alberge there.

Photos

Sept.21 from Murias de Richivaldo

Hi Gang,
I really dont know what the problem is in some areas for posting to the blog,but this one seems to be OK.
Yesterday I skipped a couple of stages so that I could meet up with Catherine and Marie and finish together. I had walked 2 days through an area they call the desert but correctly named the Maseta. Nothing but Cornfields and very flat,so quite boring..it was a little weird cos all you could see was the horizon in front of you and it played tricks on my eyes like a mirage effect...I was glad to skip the remaining stages of that one.
I went through the city of Leon,not much to see really,just like any other city. I stayed in a brilliant Alberge in a small village about 7 clicks beyond Leon. This was really nice and the couple running it were fab. They had met on the Camino some years ago and eventually opened their own Alberge. Food was home cooked kind of vegetarian,gorgeous.
Today I have walked 20 klms. starting the uphill climb through the Montes the Leon to Cruz de Ferro,Iron Cross,yes youve guessed it,it is a big Iron Cross on top of the mountain.. This is the highest mountain yet and the place where you lay the stone you brought from home. Jordanna gave me mine.
The prayer one says is as follows
Lord,may this stone,a symbol of my efforts on the pligrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross of the Saviour,one day weigh the balance in favour of my good deeds,when the deeds of my life are judged.
If I had known this prayer before I left I would have brought a bigger stone.LOL
The weather is really hot especially in the afternoon, so I try to get any climbing done early in the morning and have started to restrict myself to 20 klms a day because I was running into difficulty with the gammy leg when I went over that. But I should make it OK to Sarria where I plan to meet C and M. Girls dont forget your stone and bring some tea bags.
Ok thats all for now,except to say thanks for all the comments guys. I did send some photos to Anna,but I dont know if she has posted anywhere.
Lots of Love
Jo

Hello Everyone Still here but unable to post. All going well in Fromista with a lot of hard walking ahead. Jo

Sept.14 half way to Burgos

Well we climbed Montes de Oca and I must be getting used to this climbing as it was not as bad as anticipated,perhaps because we climbed half of it yesterday. We stayed over in a fab hotel which had an Alberge (hostel) at the back,called San Anton in Villafranche. It was very nice as we took a room with just two beds and bath.We could actually dispense with the sleeping bags and get in between two crispy clean sheets...it was heaven..
 Most times we sleep in rooms with varying number of beds. It is not pretty and can be quite noisy with organic sounds going on all night. In bed by 9 pm, all settled by 10 and at two thirty am the throng all seem to need to use the bath room at the same time. So if you can get back to sleep by 3.30 am you are lucky. Then up at six to start getting ready to walk.
Today on the way to San Juan de Ortega we passed through a lot of forest,then out onto a scene reminiscent of one of Van Gogh´s Sun Flower paintings. Fields and Fields of sunflowers......Gorgeous!
We are heading to a city called Burgos tomorrow,a gruelling 25 klms walk through not so pretty landscape. Then we take a break in Burgos..one whole day of not walking......yahoo!
ok thats all for now,will get back soon.
J.A.